Field Notes

Night Markets of Taipei: A Field Guide

Every neighbourhood has its night market, and every night market has the one dish it is famous for.

A long street market lit up at night, seen from above

Every neighbourhood in Taipei has its night market, and every night market has the one dish it is famous for. Go hungry, go late, and go with someone who is happy to share.

Five things to eat

  1. Pepper buns baked against the walls of a clay oven
  2. Oyster omelette with sweet chilli sauce
  3. Stinky tofu (be brave — it’s milder than it smells)
  4. Bubble tea, obviously
  5. Grilled squid on a stick
A cook at a street-food stall at night
Most stalls cook one thing, and have done for decades.

Follow the longest queue. It is never wrong.

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