Field Notes

A Morning at the Market

Arrive early, bring cash and a bag, and let the stalls decide what’s for dinner. A small guide to shopping like a cook.

Leeks and carrots stacked on a wooden market stall

The best recipes don’t start with a recipe. They start at a market stall at eight in the morning, with a farmer telling you the leeks are good this week and the tomatoes are finished.

How we shop

  • Walk the whole market once before buying anything
  • Buy what’s abundant — it’s cheaper and it’s at its best
  • Ask what to do with the thing you don’t recognise
  • Bring cash, a cloth bag and an empty afternoon
A market vendor weighing limes on old brass scales

Talk to the people behind the stall

They know when the first figs arrive and which apples keep through winter. Most of our favourite dishes started as a question across a table of produce.

This week’s basket

IngredientWhat we madeKeeps for
LeeksBraised with butter and thyme1 week
CarrotsRoasted with cumin and honey2 weeks
LimesPickled, for everything1 month
Fresh herbsGreen sauce3 days
Buy for three meals, cook for five.

Cook what the market gives you, not what the recipe asks for.

Maya Chen

2 responses

  1. Julien Moreau

    The pickled limes are a revelation. How long do you leave them before opening the jar?

    1. Maya Chen

      At least a week, Julien — three if you can wait. They keep getting better.

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